Of the three main Baja fishing destinations that make up the Los Cabos region, San Jose del Cabo is the older, more mature community. Cabo San Lucas has seen the wild, insane tourist development and the East Cape region maintains it distinctive charm. But San Jose del Cabo has a slower, more sedate feel to it. It's Loreto, in a city version.
At the Sacramento ISE show last January, I was talking with my good friend Ozzie Castro, owner of Neptune Adventures and a tour conductor in Baja with decades of experience. He wanted to put together a Fish Sniffer Baja trip, and we got to talking about where it should be.
San Jose del Cabo was his choice, and he told me, "You need to come down and see this location we have. It's called Posada Real and it's just a beautiful hotel, right on the beach. It would be a perfect spot for a Fish Sniffer Baja adventure."
So I asked if it would be a great place for my entire family. I had been battling multiple myeloma cancer for the last two years, and what were vacations over that time had more to do with chemotherapy and hospitals than sand, sun and fishing.
Ozzie said, "Your family will love this place, it's so much quieter than Cabo. The hotel overlooks the ocean and it's just a wonderful spot."
So I came home to my wife Nicki and announced to her, "Take some vacation time baby because were going to Baja!"
"Really! Where?" she said. "To a hotel called Posada Real in San Jose del Cabo, and... the kids are going too!" I replied. "We're going to fly out of Sacramento and Mexicana Airlines has direct flights to Los Cabos airport now (see below)."
"That's awesome! No more transfers in LAX, or SFO departures," she observed. I could see this idea was warming up to her. It had been a long time since our family had been able to enjoy an honest-to-good vacation. My daughter Elizabeth had been to Loreto many years ago, but now she could barely remember that, and my son Derek, who had just turned 8 during the show was very excited about going on a jet to Mexico!
So I dusted off the old Baja tackle bags, and put together my new Titus-30 reels and Tailwalker TW-T-661M-1 30-50 lb. rod combos. These are solid, handsome pieces of fishing equipment made by Okuma. The Titus-30 is a husky graphite frame reel that has a very smooth lever drag system that I instantly fell in love with. It also features a "Double Dog" silent anti-reverse system that worked flawlessly. Four ball bearings gave the reel a silky, effortless feel when reeling in and the large handle was a godsend when fighting big fish like marlin. The Tailwalker rods are a handsome black E-Glass blank, with HD Fuji guides and Aftco roller tip top. The 6-1/2 foot length was perfect and the gimbal butt worked like a charm during the standup fights.
I took the reels to Fisherman's Warehouse in Sacramento and loaded them up with 40 and 50 lb. test Trilene Big Game line, and Don Paganelli was great as he helped me round up some fresh trolling feathers, Yo-Zuri lures, heavy big game leader, Gamakatsu live bait hooks and heavy swivels. Fisherman's Warehouse, Outdoor Pro Shop in Oakland, Hi's Tackle Box in San Francisco and the Rod Rack are all great places to find big game tackle.
The big day arrived and we headed to Sacramento International to depart for Los Cabos. To show you how convenient this Los Cabos direct flight is, we arrived at the airport a little after 6AM, and a mere 6 hours later, we were checked into the Posada Real and the kids had their swimsuits on and were hounding Dad to take them to the surf to swim in the warm Sea of Cortez! Trips to Baja in years past, took hours longer, with layovers in LAX, or San Francisco departures that meant leaving the house at OH-GOD-THIRTY in the morning, only to arrive exhausted, just in time to take a nap before dinner.
Mexicana's travel schedule made for a reasonable early morning, and a leisurely departure when we had to leave that gave us the most part of a day to enjoy Baja both coming and going. Trust me when I say, this was so much easier.
After landing in Los Cabos, a simple trip through customs (so much nicer when that button gives you the green light), we were met by Ozzie and whisked over to the Posada Real hotel, a mere 15 minutes through the San Jose del Cabo traffic. The weather was extremely comfortable, in the mid 80's at the hotel and we checked into our beautiful rooms. Light and airy, we could hear the surf, feel the ocean breezes and truly felt the burden of work leave - the pleasure of vacation settle in.
We were here for a week, and we got together with Ozzie and Luis Duhart to discuss the fishing schedule. Luis, a retired pilot with Mexicana Airlines, owns the Palmilla Bay Sportfishing Fleet, and is one of the nicest, most gracious people I have ever had the pleasure of meeting.
We decided on a fishing schedule of 3 days of cruiser fishing, since my wife Nicki and both my kids Elizabeth and Derek would be going. While I do love panga fishing, they are just a little too small for a family of 4. Luis told us we would be picked at 6:30AM sharp, and that everything would be ready.
Our suite at the Posda Real featured a kitchenette, and Luis graciously took us to the SUPER 'supermercado' where we were able to pick up groceries to make breakfast and lunches for the fishing days. The hotel restaurant, the Cactus, didn't quite open early enough to get an early meal, so fresh fruit and breakfast rolls, and homemade sandwiches for the day were perfect.
The IBI tours driver met us promptly at 6:30, and we were whisked away to the playa at the Palmilla Beach Hotel where Luis's fleet operates. If you have never fished out of San Jose, there isn't a marina, so a panga shuttle rows you out to your cruiser, which is tied up just outside the surfline.
We met out skipper and deckhand for the week, Carlos and his son Carlos Jr. They were both extremely friendly, and spoke more English than I spoke Espanol, so communication was smooth and easy. We picked up some bait from the local skiff and headed out. Bait prices gave me a bit of sticker shock. It had been too many years since I had fished in Baja, so the $20 for 6 mackerel was jaw-dropping. Yikes!
Water temps have still been a little cool, so the dorado and tuna were very scarce, however the marlin fishing had been solid so we targeted the big billfish. Geologic conditions make the Los Cabos area the premier Striped Marlin destination in the entire world, and if catching one of these beauties is your desire, this is the place to come.
However this first day of fishing was proving to be one of those 'they must be somewhere else' kind of days. We trolled with the fleet, from the pangas up to the 60 foot multimillion dollar sportfishers. Not much seemed to be happening anywhere. The chatter on the radio was lively, but very little in the way of Fish On hollers!
We made a couple runs at marlin, but neither one of them took the lures or the live bait tossed out. Close to one, with everyone else sacked out, Carlos suddenly gunned the motor while Carlos Jr. leapt down from the flybridge to toss the live bait into the wake. The line began to immediately scream off the Okuma Titus reel, and the lever drag was thrown forward, the rod reared back with the full weight of a big striped marlin on the other end.
Carlos said "Marlin! Big Fish!" and I began the fight.
This was a heavy fish! It made a long hard run to start out the fight, and had me straining as it took the 50 lb. line off the reel with ease. Oh my, my muscles were not used to this! Slowly but surely we made up the ground on the striper, and soon we had color, and Carlos Jr. brought the billfish aboard. Carlos estimated the weight at 140 lbs., and asked if he could keep the fish. Normally I would release the billfish, but this one looked very spent, and I knew it would serve many families with good meals and so I said yes (photo at top).
So ended the first day of fishing. The kids were excited and amazed with the marlin that dad caught, and regaled Ozzie and Luis with the tale that night back at the hotel. We talked with Luis, and decided that the next days fishing would be more for the kids.
Another 6:30 am departure, only this time we picked up a whole lot of live 'sardinas', a variety of smaller baitfish that would be perfect for fishing on the reefs for various bottomfish. We motored south, and found a reef off the Westin hotel that was about a hundred feet deep. Elizabeth, Derek and I all dropped live baits and it didn't take long for the action to start. We caught pargo, small grouper, triggerfish and a variety of other snappers from a couple pounds all the way up to the 20 lb. range.
This was a blast and the kids had a great time. We ran through our bait pretty fast so the day ended a little bit earlier. Many tasty fillets later, we brought back 4 bags of meat that the hotel put in the freezer, with one being sent to the restaurant for our dinner later that night.
A scrumptious meal of fresh fish prepared 3 different ways was our reward, and boy was it good! Plus they made a couple of servings of fish tacos out of them for our lunch. Spectacular!
The last day's fishing was on the docket, and the kids had so much fun fishing the reef, I wanted to get them out there to do that again. So this time we loaded up with even more bait, and headed out. However, on this day the reef bit was definitely slowed down. Oh we caught some, but none of the big bruisers we had gotten the previous day. Elizabeth did manage to catch the unusual though; a wolf eel came up after one of the drops and surprised both the kids with its fierce appearance. Carlos Jr. gingerly took it off the hook, tossed it back after we took a picture of it.
About 10:30 Carlos decided to see if couldn't scare up something trolling, and we set out the lures as we motored up. His instincts proved right as within 30 minutes he gunned the motor once again with another marlin taking one of the trolled lures. This billfish was smaller, but jumped more than the one on the first day. I offered Elizabeth the rod, but she said, "No Dad, you take this!"
This one we got to the boat in better shape, and released it to fight another day. I estimated this one in the 120 lb. range, and definitely could feel the difference over the fish from the first day.
So ended our family fishing vacation to Baja. The trip was fantastic, one of the best I've ever had. Our host, Ozzie Castro of Neptune Adventures made sure everything was first class. Luis Duhart of Palmilla Bay Sportfishing has a premier operation, and he is one of most gentlemanly persons I have ever met. The Posada Real and its entire staff was among the finest I have ever had the pleasure of dealing with.
To book a trip with Neptune Adventures contact Ozzie at ((888) 875-4700 or check out their website www.neptunetours.com. Also, check out the Fish Sniffer/Neptune Adventures November 2005 fishing adventure and sign up. Till the next time, Tight Lines!
MORE FACTS
Hotel:
The Best Western Posada Real is a wonderful hotel located right on the beach less than 15 minutes from the Los Cabos airport. The hotel features a very casual low-key atmosphere that gives both the angler and the casual tourist a great home base for a San Jose Del Cabo vacation.
It's layout includes 2 three story wings, and all rooms have balconies that overlook a beautiful Mexican garden landscaped with many native cacti and plants as well as featuring a view of beautiful Palmilla Bay and the Sea of Cortez. A small creek runs through the center and makes the garden a beautiful evening stroll after a dinner in the Hotel's great dining room.
We enjoyed all of our meals at the Cactus restaurant in the hotel, and I must say the fresh catch of day was a definite highlight. They even prepared the pargo and snapper the kids had caught during one of the day's we fished. What a feast! The staff was exemplary in their service, attitude and friendliness.
The kids made the swimming pool their main hangout during the day. Featuring a bar in the pool (and how can you not LOVE that!), relaxing after fishing in the warm Cabo sun was just the ticket for these weary bones. The hotel also featured the Wahoo Taco Restaurant next to the pool, where a delicious lunch could be had while sipping a margarita and sitting under the giant palapa in the pool. The fish tacos are to die for.
General Manager Vincente Landeros and Room Division Manager Urbano Olea went the extra mile (or kilometer in this case) to present us with the best accommodations we have ever enjoyed during our many trips to Mexico and Baja over the years.
Many thanks to Vincente and Urbano, and the entire staff of the Posada Real. We can't wait to come back in November with the big Fish Sniffer/Neptune Adventures Fishing Spectacular. So make plans and sign up now! You'll have a great time! You can find out more about the Posada Real at www.posadareal.com.mx/LosCabos/.
San Jose del Cabo:
San Jose del Cabo is the older, more sedate brother to its raucous, touristy sibling Cabo San Lucas. Long a more traditional city in the Mexican flavor, its tradition makes for a gentle, pleasure filled visit to its main streets, markets and shops.
Located a mere 18 miles from the Los Cabos airport, it's a much shorter transfer from the airport than the 45-60 minute trip to the Cabo-East Cape destinations. You get to see the local flavor on this trip, from the businesses to the shopping opportunities that await.
We were met at the airport by IBI tours. A friendly and more professional transfer service I have not encountered in all the trips to Baja I've taken over the last couple of decades. Their command of English was excellent, their vehicles state-of-the-art, and overall attitude and appearance was exemplary. They were our main travel method from the hotel, to the Palmilla Bay fishing departure point and every day were there right on time waiting for us.
Transportation:
The main northern California airports offering service into Cabo San Lucas are Mexicana, Alaksa, America West, Aeromexico, United and several others.
Mexicana now has a direct flight out of Sacramento, which services Los Cabos airport and is such a huge improvement on the old go to LA, transfer and on to Los Cabos which was such a pain. This flight leaves Sacramento on Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Sunday, at 8:55 am and arrives at Los Cabos at 12:55 pm. We were completely checked into our rooms and the kids were ready to hit the beach early in the afternoon. The return dates are Saturday, Sunday, Tuesday and Thursday at a very leisurely 3:55, which gives you plenty of time to have a last minute adventure or enjoy one last dip in the pool before heading home.
Arrival back in Sacramento was at 6:05, with a fast and easy trip through a very uncrowded customs line.
Mexicana's jet was clean and comfortable, and they served a breakfast on the trip to Cabo, and a dinner on flight home. A significant offering of complimentary adult beverages were also offered for those so inclined.
Mexicana reservations can made through all major travel agents including Neptune Adventures (888) 875-4700 as well as online at www.mexicana.com.