i was tightening grounds and doing some work around the switchboxes this evening...and discovered something interesting. My oil alarm module has been connected to the #4 cylinder coil this whole time. I have been having problems with my oil alarm consistently beeping at 1/4 throttle and above. my manual says that I am supposed to tie it to the number 2 cylinder at the switchbox. My question is this...is it possible that the alarm module being connected to the #4 cylinder at the switchbox instead of the #2 cylinder could cause my low oil alarm to sound?
there is one small problem, though. the #4 cylinder coil wire (green/white) that ties into the switchbox is made to accept 2 wires because on the other side of the rubber piece that goes over the connection is "fitted" for a second wire. It's hard to explain, but hopefully i'm explaining it somewhat clearly. the #2 cylinder wire that ties into the switchbox does not.
What should I do here? Tie the alarm module to the number 2 cylinder (green wire), or keep it tied to the number 4 cylinder coil wire (green/white)?
By connecting that wire to the end post, the rectifier is giving the tach the wrong signal.
Your engine should be idling a 800 rpms, not 2000.
Rule of thumb, never run your 2 stroke outboard engine over 2000 rpms. while in neutral.
Those engines are made to run under a load, & 2000 rpms in neutral is the max you want to run.
In many many cases, if your tach goes out, it means your rectifier just went South.
Is your volt meter reading 12 or 13 volts while running?
If it [ volt meter needle ] doesn't move with more rpms, & your battery seems to be a bit sluggish, the odds are your rectifier went South.
Re-attach the wire the way it was & start the engine, next check to see if the gray wire to the tach has 12 volts coming out,....if not, your rectifier is fried.
If you have wing nuts on your battery cables, they have the tendency to work them selves loose, & even if 1 cable gets fairly loose, it will blow your rectifier.
The recommended thing is, s/s nuts [ 2 per battery post ] & tighten with a wrench.
Hello all. I am planning on doing some ignition tests this weekend, so I needed to get the tachometer working on my 1988 Mercury 150 XR4. After some rewiring and testing, I finally got it going. In the process, I ran into some trouble, and wanted to ask the forum a few questions. Here goes:
1. The way I fixed the tach was to switch the gray "send" wire from my remote to a different post on my rectifier/regulator. I switched it from the center post to the left post of the rectifier. The center post had one yellow wire from the stator connected. The left post had 2 yellow wires from the stator connected. Shouldn't the center post of the stator work with my tach the same as the left post? Shouldn't any yellow wire from the stator power the tach? What does it mean when one of the yellow wires from the stator won't power the tach?
2. Once I got the tach to work, it seemed to be idling fast. What is the proper idle RPM for this motor? The RPM's idling out of the water in neutral with a hose connected was close to 2,000 RPM. Does that sound about right?
3. In preparing to do some ignition testing this weekend, I have been studying the manual. The manual gives voltage readings at 400 RPM, 1000 RPM, and 3000 RPM. Am I supposed to check the voltages at all of those RPM's, or just one? If I'm supposed to check voltages at all RPM's, how do I get the motor to idle at 400 RPM and 1,000 RPM when it idles at 2,000 RPM to begin with?
Thanks so much for any help you guys can give me. Kind regards, AC.