Radio:
VHS is not just a must but an absolute requirement. Not just to save your life in an emergency but to help you find fish. Remember, if someone helps you find fish return the favor. On a side note, the Coast Guard doesn't use CB's and neither do most boaters.

GPS plotter:
Not a must, but extremely helpful.

Downriggers:
First I have not experimented with every type of downrigger on the market, nor do I have the time to experiment with every type there is, nor do I want to. The choices are not that vast however the best two on the market are Scottyand Canon and I will give you the pros and cons for each type and you decide.

But of course, the first decision is whether to go electric or hand crank. Beyond the cost factor the only place you should use hand crank is in fresh water. The depths alone make hand crank units a pain in the arm. I know because I had four at one time and that was when I didn't know any better.

Next question is how many? You need two. One for each side of the boat. Any more than that and it is just a big mess. In addition you are going to get bit on two downriggers just as often on three or four downriggers. Also with only one, every time you pull up your downrigger you stop fishing. And unless you intend to stop and pull all of your gear up with each and every fish, get two.

Now for the comparison between Cannon and Scotty. Bear in mind that I have not looked at the 1999 models; things change and this is not to knock either product. Both will provide service and do the job required.

Cannon downriggers are a top of the line downrigger. They have a good recovery rate and with the newer motors can lift heavier weights than before, even under power. Their digitroll feature adds additional movement to your bait. They are not as powerful as their counterpart, but you will break off less weights. These are easier to use for the novice, and a decent choice for the fisherman who is not quite a die hard. They also come with more bells and whistles. I am not much into bells and whistles myself.

Scottys are my choice. These can drag a 20# ball up and then some. They have a fast recovery rate with a minimum of problems. The only problem is that you have to be careful on the clutch setting; too tight and you will break off your weights. Set the clutch just enough not to slip. They have stops you put on the cable to stop the motor. (I stop my weight at 40' and 10' with a safety at 5'.) With Scottys you can flip the switch and go do something else. Replacing cable is a bit easier also. Scottys come with less bells and whistles, but are a heavier duty set up for the fishing fools and die hards.

Swivels base:
These allow the boom to be turned closer to the boat and are a must in my opinion.

Extensions:
I don't feel that you need this option, as I like to be able to reach the cable to snap on releases without pulling in the boom.

Weights:
Lead, Need I say more? Just a little on weights. 12# and 15# for sport fishing are just fine. Be careful on 20# weights as those can break the cable. If you use 20# weights I suggest using a rubber snubber between the weights and cable. It helps to soften the bounce and you will break less of them off.

One note: When going from a 15# weight to a 20# weight you need to re-pack your cable. Do this by dropping your 15# weight to the last three winds and then slide 5 extra pounds down the cable. Wait until it reaches the bottom and then bring in your cable. This will pack it tight enough for the 20# weight

Stops:
This is for those using Scottys downriggers and any other that shut off with a stop. Don't use the plastic types where the cable is flexed through the stop. First they can slide on their own. Secondly because the cable is flexed in the stop, when it winds onto the spool thee part that is flexed along the body of the stop rubs on the rest of the cable. The next time you drop your weight -- kerplunk. Believe me I know. Use the brass crimp-on stops. These don't bend the cable, are smaller and they protect the cable from abrasion

Cable:
I haven't found good cable yet. Most of what you will find is 150 to 200# stuff. This is great as it is small in diameter. But I would rather use 300# for the abrasion resistance. Nonetheless, pack your riggers with at least 400' of cable. Most importantly have an extra spool of cable and weights on the boat, as well as extra snaps and crimps. (I don't mess around. I have two extra spools and three extra weights.) Crimps are sufficient to hold a snap on the end of the cable. In other words you don't need fancy plastic ends. I have rarely broken a cable at the weight. Usually it breaks mid way down, due to fraying in the spool. Check your cable periodically during the day and if you find any frays cut and crimp the snap above the fray.

Cable releases:
This is one item on which everyone has their own preference and I have tried everything I've seen. The ones I like the best are the plastic push in type. These are white plastic with the plug attached to the barrow. These work just as good as the 30 dollar ones and cost less then ten dollars. I also don't buy the most expensive ones as they have a tendency to go away (with your weights). For the snap to the cable I use a commercial grade clip that is designed to pinch the cable. Then I use 200 -600 mono long enough so that you can attach your line without having to swivel your downrigger. 3 - 4 feet will do. I also use this size mono because if your release gets wrapped around the cable it won't go away as fast. I have to re-rig the releases every time I buy them.

Enough of the nuts and bolts. Next article: fishing tackle.